The main dining room at Stone House at Stirling Ridge
From Susan: Sometimes, you stumble upon a memorable meal in an unassuming place like a roadside diner or a local pub. A rarer treat is a great meal in a grand space. On a raw, gray evening last week, we wound our way through the semi-rural landscape south and west of Montclair, a sleepy, residential area that seemed an unlikely location for a notable restaurant. All of a sudden around a bend in the road, there it was, Stone House at Stirling Ridge, looking far more Napa Valley than New Jersey.
Chef Jerry Villa
A view of the wine room in the main dining room
An impressive structure sitting on a small hill, the main building of what is actually a small compound, Stone House is built in the contemporary Craftsman style, with lots of fieldstone and wood, overhanging eaves, exposed rafters and rustic metalwork. On this rainy night, the warm glow from within was especially welcoming, but the place has been carefully set up to have a similar effect in any season. We want to return in the summer, when the outdoor patio twinkles with strings of lights and the fire pits are ablaze. And when Chef Jerry Villa’s large garden stocks his kitchen.
We had been invited to Stone House to sample Villa’s food. We were not sure what to expect, given that the restaurant is part of the Landmark Hospitality group, which also owns Liberty House in Jersey City, Celebrate at Snug Harbor on Staten Island, Valiant Yacht charters and an off-premise catering operation. In our experience, restaurants linked to banquet facilities can be good, but not great.
Steamed manilla clams with chorizo and grilled garlic bread
Grilled octopus, with chickpeas, preserved cherry tomatoes, parsley puree and a drizzle of Sardinian olive oil
Chef Villa and manager Amy LaRochelle showed us greatness. After a tour of the buildings and grounds, including large and small private party rooms and that garden, which Villa is itching to plant, we were ushered into the Chef’s Room – a glass-enclosed space off to the side of the dining room, flanked by windows giving into the kitchen and onto the patio.
View of the kitchen from "The Chefs Room"
Manager Amy LaRochelle
“I don’t do the traditional four seasons,” said Villa, explaining the structure of his Italian-influenced menu, which he changes regularly, leaving some dishes on permanently because they are so popular – like steamed manilla clams with chorizo and a slab of grilled garlic bread. His early spring offerings included loin lamb chops with faro, kale, roasted tomatoes and mint pesto, monkfish “osso buco” with black rice, fennel and bagna cauda and a fish called corvina from the Baha coast with spaghetti squash and fava beans. But there is also first-rate sushi.
One of the beautiful sushi offerings
Villa’s family has a home in Italy, outside of Lucca, and it is clear that his regular trips there are a major inspiration. He uses local sources when he can – he works with Zone 7, which connects New Jersey and Pennsylvania farmers with restaurants, and buys cheeses from Valley Shepherd Creamery in Long Valley. He admits, however, that some of his favorite fishes come from Mexico, and his extraordinary, black garlic-rubbed sirloin steak is from Niman Ranch in northern California. What matters to him is the quality, and techniques that makes the most of ingredients like octopus, grilled and served with chickpeas, preserved cherry tomatoes, parsley puree and a drizzle of verdant Sardinian olive oil.
Braised short rib over polenta with gorgonzola cheese and spinach
Pork chop with maple-glazed fingerling sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts and bacon
Corvina with spaghetti squash and fava beans
Loin lamb chops with faro, kale, roasted tomatoes and mint pesto
Panna cotta
Bread pudding
We sampled an embarrassing number of dishes paired with wines selected by LaRochelle. And we’re delighted to know that this great restaurant is only a 35 to 40 minute drive away – meaning we’ll be back soon to see what’s coming up in Villa’s garden. “As the season comes, all the ingredients will be around,” throwing out his arms and smiling with characteristic exuberance as if to welcome everyone in. That’s great.
Additional photos are in the slideshow below
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